The British Virgin Islands (BVIs) have dozens of anchorages and more than 100 dive sites. Some consider the BVIs among the world’s top five dive destinations, while others consider these islands the top shipwreck diving spot on the planet. With an endless collection of wrecks and rocks to explore, you’ll quickly find out why the BVIs are among the best-kept secrets in the diving community. They offer some of the most varied diving in the Caribbean, suitable for everyone from the newest diver to the saltiest sea dog!
This sample 10-day itinerary, courtesy of Sunreef Yachts Charter, gives you a taste of BVI delights, listing many of the best dive sites.
Day 1: Great Harbor
Most guests arrange pickup at noon at Road Town in Tortola (below) or Trellis Bay and then head by dinghy from the airport straight to the waiting yacht, all via your captain. For your first full day aboard, you can sail to Great Harbor, Peter Island. Have your first Caribbean swim or start diving. Dine on your yacht overlooking the lights of Road Town. A good place to explore is the Black Forest, Peter Island. The Black Forest, a mini reef wall off Peter Island, is named for the endangered black coral found there, and a variety of fish including the long snout butterfly fish, creole wrasses and blue tangs.
Day 2: Norman Island
Explore the BVIs’ pirate history and caves with stolen treasure and sail to Norman Island. Visit its pirate bars, or find a quiet secluded anchorage, watching the sun set. Stop off for a snorkel or dive at the Indians, a marine park surrounding an outcrop of rocks with several dive spots and a reef drop off for snorkeling. You never know what you are going to see here.
Day 3: Peter Island
Sail to White Bay, Peter Island for a great day snorkeling and swimming at its fabulous beach, or continue on to Deadman’s Bay. Deadman’s Bay is home to Deadman’s Island, where Blackbeard left his pirates with their barrel of rum ashore. Deadman’s Bay is also one of the most beautiful bays in the BVIs. Try a morning dive on the Painted Walls or Blonde Rock or Coral Gardens. Each dive is different, with varied sights and levels of difficulty.
Alternately, sit back and relax with a massage at the exclusive Peter Island Resort. You can also enjoy lunch onboard the yacht or at Peter Island’s beach bar—a particularly fun spot on Sundays, as you can dance the afternoon away with a steel drum band.
Day 4: Salt Island
Wake up early, and check out the iguanas sunning themselves on the rocks. Then sail to Salt Island. Salt Island is home to the wreck of the H.M.S. Rhone, one of the best wreck sites in the world. In fact, it was voted the number-one wreck in the Caribbean by Sport Diver and Scuba magazines. If you only have time for one dive trip in the BVIs, the RMS Rhone is it. National Geographic, the BBC, and The Travel Channel have all been here to see what it’s all about. It’s also where the 1977 film The Deep was shot.
The wreck is that of a Royal Mail steamer, which sank during the hurricane of 1867 with 125 people onboard. At 310 feet long and 40 feet wide, the wreck of the RMS Rhone lies in two main parts in waters between 30 and 90 feet deep. Much of it is still intact and visible, including decking, parts of the rigging, the steam engine, and propeller. Numerous artifacts from 1867 are also still visible. Swim through the amazingly intact bow section as well as under the stern near the 15-foot propeller. Get a feel for the size of the RMS Rhone when you swim down the length of the massive driveshaft towards the engine box and gears. No matter how many times you dive on the Rhone, you can still find something new.
Day 5: “Wreck Alley” or the Baths
If you’re still interested in wrecks, sail to Cooper Island, home of Wreck Alley. A triple wreck site, Wreck Alley is 50 to 85 feet in depth, for intermediate divers. It consists of the Marie L, a cargo boat intentionally sunk in the early 1990s; the Pat, a tugboat sunk a few years later that now lies up against the Marie L; and the Beata, sunk in 2001. The wrecks are interesting to explore, with a large colony of garden eels around them and stingrays frequenting the area, too. Time on the wrecks is limited due to the depth, so the dive is completed on the shallower reef (about 50 feet) around the boat mooring.
If you need a break, continue on to the Baths (above) on Virgin Gorda to enjoy a day exploring the amazing boulders onshore. Climb to the top of the park, and you will enjoy a panoramic view of the BVIs and some local shopping.
Day 6: Ginger Island
Ginger Island is another marine park reserve with varied dive sites. Sail to the island for the day and take your pick of nearby islands like Marina Cay for overnighting.
Suggested dives include Alice in Wonderland. From 40 to 70 feet, this site provides a very different underwater landscape to other BVI areas. It is a colorful coral garden, featuring large heads of pillar and star coral with waving purple and green sea fans and soft gorgonians. All five types of butterfly fish can be found, including the shy long snout butterfly fish. Large grouper rays, jewfish, African pompano, and even reef sharks can be found here on occasion, too.
Another good dive: Ginger Steps, 30 to 90 feet, for novice /intermediate divers. Like Alice, Ginger Steps enjoys some of the healthiest corals in the BVIs. The site has better protection from ocean swells, making for a calmer dive. The boat moors in 35 feet on the top of the three “steps” that make up the site. The reef then slopes down to the second sandy step at 50 feet before dropping away to the third step (the sea floor) at about 90 feet. Numerous reef fish species live in the healthy star and brain coral heads, and pompano, eagle rays, and turtles have been seen cruising along the slopes.
Day 7: Mountain Point and the Bitter End
Continue on to Mountain Point in Virgin Gorda and the Bitter End (pictured below). Mountain Point has great snorkeling, with a diving option and a fabulous sunset view of Tortola and the Dog Islands. Check out the Rhone’s anchor at Saba Rock at the Bitter End, enjoy local entertainment at its many restaurants, and take advantage of shopping if you’re seeking something with a local flavor.
When diving Mountain Point, which is good for novices, the boat lies in 25 feet of water. The reef slopes away to the west to a maximum of 70 feet. The sand at the bottom of the slope is visited by eagle rays and stingrays, while the shallows around the mooring contain a number of swim-throughs and shallow grottos.
You can also dive at The Invisibles at The Bitter End. Sixty feet deep and good for advanced divers, it features a submerged pinnacle rising to within four feet of the surface, a spectacular dive. Prolific sponge and soft corals give the reef tremendous color. Washed with strong currents, this brings in huge volumes of fish. Look out for the large school of permit atop the pinnacle. Subject to weather.
Day 8: Tortola Northern Islands
Sail to Guana Island, with a dive stopoff if you want at the Dogs, with breakfast on the way. Guana is a private island, so you can’t go ashore without invitation. However, the island itself is worth a look from the water. Enjoy lunch onboard overlooking Guana’s amazing blend of clear turquoise water, primitive rock formations, huge cactus, and tropical plants. Continue your breathtaking sail to Jost Van Dyke. You’ll see Sandy Cay and Sandy Spit on the way. They are perfect little islands ringed by glowing white sand beaches. You’ll be tempted to stop and explore. Go ahead—they’re open to the public. Or, head back east or continue around Tortola for a for a few last dives, providing your departure is not within 24 hours.
Definitely check out the Chimney (Great Dog), 30 to 45 feet and good for novices. One of the most famous dives in the dog islands, the Chimney is another site with an unusual underwater structure and many coral formations. It has a small canyon swim-through with an arch covered in multi-colored sponges and delicate orange cup corals. Take a light to fully appreciate the range of colors.
Day 9: Anegada
Spend an extra day sailing to the famous pirate hideaway of Anegada after visiting the Bitter End. Experience another side of the water, sampling fresh-cooked lobster as their specialty.
Day 10: Marina Cay or Norman Island Area
Complete your holiday with a final dive on Diamond Reef and a exploration of Marina Cay, with its stunning view and clear turquoise water. Or, continue in a clockwise direction to one of the dive sites around Norman or Peter Islands. Enjoy a final onboard celebratory dinner overlooking the many beautiful Virgin Islands, complete with Caribbean sunset.
If you do dive Diamond Reef, its name is a result of a diver losing a diamond ring here about 10 years ago (never found!). The reef is a small “wall” approximately 200 yards long, running from 15 feet in depth to a sandy bottom at 40 feet. It has a profusion of both hard and soft corals and is heavily populated with tropical fish. You may see tomtates, sergeant majors, grey snapper, and cero mackerel, plus an occasional stingray and turtle. This site is ideal for all levels of divers and snorkelers, accessible in nearly all weather.
Final Day: Drop Off
Travel in true Caribbean style by water at Trellis Bay to the airport dock for your departure, with a final chance for local arts and crafts shopping. Or, enjoy a final morning sail back to Roadtown, for a drop off in the BVIs’ capital.
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