Day 11: Tuau Atoll
We cross to Tuau atoll, located southeast of Apataki and northwest of Fakarava. Only 10 miles long with a population of just under 40, it is one of the smallest but most stunning and unspoiled atolls in the Tuamotus, complete with miniscule bays and lagoons within lagoons. It’s perfect for stand-up paddles, canoeing, or even waterbikes. There are two passes at Toau, Otugi and Fakatahuna, which provide us with further amazing dives both morning and afternoon. We see even more schooling fish, mantas, and sharks in strong currents. One of the most interesting features of these dives, and what differentiates them from other sites in French Polynesia, is that the coral is some of the most beautiful in the entire region. We are getting quite used to pass diving and strong currents, and the overall expertise of all divers increases dramatically.
Day 12: Tuau Atoll
Today no diving. Instead, we explore the lagoons and have a beach party. PWCs, stand-up paddling, and kite surfing are the orders of the day.
Day 13: Fakarava Atoll
We sail to Fakarava, 240 nautical miles northeast of Tahiti. It’s the second-biggest atoll of French Polynesia after Rangiroa: 32 nautical miles long, 11 nautical miles wide, with a huge lagoon. The only way to get in and out of Fakarava for a large yacht is through the north pass, known as Garuae pass. Now, if Rangiroa and Apataki were amazing, Fakarava is really the cherry on the on the sundae. The lagoon is fed by the Garuae pass (1,600 meters wide, or about 5,250 feet wide, the biggest of Polynesia) and the Tetamanu pass to the south. Classified as biosphere reserve by UNESCO in 2006 for its rich fauna and flora, the two passes are a dream for divers. With mantas and dozens of different species of sharks including grey, white tip, tiger, hammerhead and silkys, the Garuae pass is particularly spectacular.
Day 14: Fakarava Atoll
After a morning dive at Fakarava north, we set sail to Fakrava south. The great vibes of the small guest house and the small motus around the south pass of Tetamanu, with its few local surfers, are fantastic. Since the pass is small, it doesn’t allow for larger yachts, so we travel inside the atoll from Fakarava north. If you have heard of the famous wall of sharks seen in French Polynesia, this is the place to go. I’m tempted to stay for a month or two.
Days 15 to 17: Fakarava Atoll
We remain at Fakarava and experience a grey rey shark bonanza, 300 to 400 of them. We film amazing footage. During the evening, we visit further beaches and lagoons, and we do some traditional hula dancing and celebrate late into the night.
A wonderful trip. I can still see the deserted atolls and the amazing dives and feel the gentle sea breeze on my face. We’re already planning our next trip with the fantastic captain and crew of Tiara, so be part of it! For now, nana (“goodbye” in Tahitian).
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